Author archive for filep

  • GOOGLY EYE

    Olivier Saillard, Violetta Sanchez, and 25 ways to be a turncoat

    - by filep

    “We nominate McQueen at Mugler and Armani Casa at Margiela…

    We nominate Margiela at Schiaparelli and order him not to make any collections to preserve the surrealist spirit of the house.”

    Curator Olivier Saillard hosted another one of his legend-in-the-making performances during couture week, this time in the intimate setting of the APC headquarters.

    For 30 minutes, Saillard and his collaborator Violetta Sanchez pushed the classic man’s grey blazer to the limit (and beyond) by showing 25 ways it could be worn, while reciting a surreal list of nominations that read like a “who’s who” and a “what’s-wrong” with today’s fashion scene.

    Can’t wait to see what Saillard comes up with next.

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste… steven tai

    - by filep

    Meet Steven Tai, our final Hyères designer.

    Steven. Photo by Filep Motwary

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    I feel incredibly honored to be selected for this year’s Hyeres. I vividly remember that when I first discover the festival I did not even begin my education at Central Saint Martins. But at that point I already felt a strong connection to the competition and I knew I would try to be apart of the festival one day. Therefore, being selected as a finalist really means a great deal to me because it means that an audience I truly respect understands my work.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    Natural, familiar, friendly..

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    The entire process has been incredible. It really is difficult to pick just one favorite part. Having the name Hyeres backing you means you are granted opportunities that I could not normally even dream of. A selection of those moments include: – having countless fabric companies at Premiere Vision sponsoring my work – working with the prestigious Givaudan Fragrances to create a personal perfume – having the opportunity to create a look for the house of Chloé – coming to Hyeres and meeting all the wonderful designers and the team at Villa Noailles

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    Geeky, Awkward, confident

    Steven Tai / CANADA / Central St-Martin's London.
    Photo: Rene Habermacher.
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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste… ELINA LAITINEN, SIIRI RAASAKA & TIIA SIREN

    - by filep

    Elina Laitinen, Siiri Raasakka and Tiia Sirén come from Finland and design menswear together. They have been selected for Hyeres 2012.


    Elina. Photo by Filep Motwary

    Siiri. Photo by Filep Motwary

    
    Tiia. Photo by Filep Motwary
    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?
    We feel really honored to be selected regardless of the fact that this is the first collection we have ever put together. We want to break every boundary there is, and it’s exciting that other people can understand our world as well.
    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?
    Coolest thing EVER!
    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?
    We have totally enjoyed the whole process of making the collection since we like to get our hands dirty and here in Hyères its really amazing to be able to work with a professional team.
    In three words , what is your collection about?
    Boys! Youth! Revolution!
    
    
    Elina Laitinen + Siiri Raasaka + Tiia Siren / FINLAND / Aalto University Helsinki
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  • EYE CANDY

    hyères just a taste… jean-pierre blanc

    - by filep

    Jean-Pierre Blanc, director of Villa Noailles and founder of Hyeres Festival for 27 years.
    Photography by Filep Motwary
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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste… daniel hurlin

    - by filep

    Meet French-born Daniel Hurlin, one more talented original from this year’s selection of Hyeres’ Festival.

    Daniel. Photo by Filep Motwary

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    I am very happy. I am also very worried, because I want to make my collection the best it can be! But I am very happy, and proud.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    My world is in colors, so : Azure, emerald and beige

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    Meeting the other selected designers help you rationalize everything, and make the whole process more human. Fashion design is an isolating process, even though you are constantly brought to collaborate with other people for all the bits of your collection. Being able to share with people who perfectly understand your dilemmas, is invaluable.

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    While I’m tempted to say “Perfect Blue Tamara” (title of my collection), I think this will be more enlightening : colours, materials, bodies.

    Daniel Hurlin / "Perfect Blue Tamara" / FRANCE / IFM Paris
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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste… lucas sponchiado

    - by filep

    Continuing the introduction of the Hyeres 2012 selected designers. Meet Belgian womenswear designer, Lucas Sponchiado.

    
    Lucas. Photo by Filep Motwary

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    It is incredibly great! It is an honor to be selected…

    The Hyeres Festival is a huge event and a great opportunity for me to show my work. I am glad to be selected, exited and very enthusiastic about it.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    Opportunity, meeting with other creatives from around the world and creativity.

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    It is very hard to answer because there is a lot of different things happening during the process of the festival. Meeting all the different contestants and the festival crew is great. Professionally, presenting my collection to Maida Gregory-Boina was a great experience.

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    Contrast, sensuality and architecture.

    Lucas Sponchiado / "out of vacuum" / BELGIUM / La Cambre Brussels
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  • EYE HEAR

    hyères just a taste… ragne kikas

    - by filep

    We have started introducing the Hyeres 2012 selected designers. Meet womenswear designer, Ragne Kikas from Estonia.

    Ragne.Photo by Filep Motwary.

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    It is an honor to be one of the ten finalists and present my newest knitwear collection to such a wonderful audience. It makes me feel happy and proud.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    Creative, forward-looking, inspirational.

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    Translating my feelings, inspirations and impressions into garments/outfits and collaborating with great companies like Swarovski or Givaudan to name just a few. It was also a great experience to create a look for Chloé and pair my own visions with the heritage of Chloé.

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    Knitting, plate Armour, femininity.

    Ragne Kikas / ESTONIA / HAW Hamburg. By René Habermacher.
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  • MY STIMULEYE

    HYERES 2012: PALAIS DE TOKYO AWARD & LIVE STREAMING

    - by filep

    For the first time, Paris’ Palais de Tokyo contemporary art center will allow everyone to experience LIVE! the fashion shows of the Hyères International Fashion & Photography Festival, during a special event with The Woolmark Company and the Galeries Lafayette group.


    On April 28 2012, guests and public at the Palais de Tokyo will participate, through direct commentaries by fashion journalist Daphne Burki and interaction between Paris & Hyères, in the immediate selection of a public prize for their favorite designer.

    The event will unfold in the salle Epstein, a mythical projection room in the Palais de Tokyo, built by the Cinémathèque Française in the end of the 1980’s, and given a second life after 20 years of abandon.

    Those who cannot attend at Palais de Tokyo will be able to follow the fashion show live on The Stimuleye.

    PUBLIC AWARD
    Villa Noailles/Palais de Tokyo
    Saturday April 28th, 8:45 PM C.E.T.
    Salle Epstein of the Palais de Tokyo
    Paris 16th Arrondissement.

    All times C.E.T. (GMT + 2)
    19:45 Cocktail by invitation
    20:45 Doors open to the public + beginning of broadcast Paris – Hyères
    21:00 Fashion show begins, with on-site commentaries by Daphen Burki:
    10 designers in competition
    2 winners of 2011
    10 special looks for Chloé
    22:30 Palais de Tokyo Public Prize Award

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste…maxime rappaz

    - by filep

    Continuing the introduction of the Hyeres 2012 selected designers. Meet Swiss womenswear designer, Maxime Rappaz.

    
    Maxime. Photo by Filep Motwary.

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    A chance to show what I’m working on and the opportunity to learn more through rewarding meetings.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    Professional. Stimulation. Fashion

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    The challenge to update my collection and take decisions in a short time.

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    Geometry. Femininity. Poetry.

    
    
    Maxime Rappaz / SWISS / HEAD Geneva.
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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste…KIM CHOONG-WILKINS

    - by filep

    Introducing the Hyeres 2012 selected designers. Meet menswear designer, Kim Choong Wilkins from the U.K

    Kim. Photography by Filep Motwary.

    How does it feel for you being selected as one of the ten designers for this edition of Hyeres Festival ?

    For me this is the culmination of a very long journey. The idea that during the selection process many esteemed fashion specialists, including Yamamoto, have given their approval to my work is very encouraging. It is a crucial milestone.

    I graduated as textile designer and moved to Milan to follow my dream-job which turned out to be my nightmare job. I was a bit naive. I learn t a lot about what fashion was and what it emphatically wasn’t. Returning to London to take up my masters in menswear, allowed me to figure a few things out in terms of what fashion means to me. Personally, it is a medium to rally against mediocrity.

    I went to work for a handful of designers, sometimes as a seamstress, sometimes as a designer and all the time developing my signature and allowing me to mature.

    For me this is a kind of compulsion, I can only do this; to draw and make and knit and sew. Its not always so rational.

    Being selected for Hyeres gives this kind of obsession a context to nurture your neurosis and be part of a wider, critical audience.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    Limitless, creative , freedom…

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    Being involved in a festival this prestigious has a huge focusing effect, simply being granted the brief has allowed me to find my voice. Working to develop a perfume, being given free rein to use a multitude of fabrics and an exclusive print..

    Basically to be a mega-brand for a month, lucky does not even describe it. The festival is both a very slick operation and a compassionate nurse for our creative ambitions. The festival is both a very slick operation and a compassionate nurse for our creative ambitions.

    What is your collection about in three words.

    Subversive, dazzling, dystopia

    Kim Choon-Wilkins / UK / Royal College of Art London
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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste…narelle dore

    - by filep

    We have started introducing the Hyeres 2012 selected designers. Meet womenswear designer, Narelle Dore from Australia.

    Narelle. Photo by Filep Motwary

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    I feel not only honored to be selected for Hyeres but also overwhelmed that my work will stay in the wonderful archive forever.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    Sunny, open-minded and wonderful!!

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    Well, arriving at Hyeres, at the Villa was wonderful also the preparation for the show, the presentation while meeting the rest of the contenstants and people who work at the Villa Noailles

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    Macrame, salt crystals and women

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    Narelle Dore / AUSTRALIA / Royal Academy Antwerp, Photo by Rene Habermacher
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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste…jasmina barshovi

    - by filep

    We have started introducing the Hyeres 2012 selected designers. Meet menswear designer, Jasmina Barshovi from Switzerland.

    Jasmina. Photography by Filep Motwary.

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    I was very happy to receive the phone call, though I did not expect to make it to the finals.  I feel honored to be here.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    A great opportunity to meet many important people from the industry, it has a laid back environment that combines business and pleasure and in a way it feels like being back to school. Of course, there is the jury at the end of the shows, which adds a bit of stress.

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    Rethinking the collection, going back to things I left on the side for a while. I was an opportunity for me to re-think women, as I am a menswear designer.

    What was the women’s garment you created for Chloe about?

    A sophisticated by nature, confident yet simple. The clothes featured all sorts of details.

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    Nostalgia, blurry memories and emotions.

    The Stimuleye

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste… paula selby avellaneda

    - by filep

    Starting today, we will be introducing the Hyeres 2012 selected designers. The first is 26 year-old Paula Selby Avellaneda from Argentina..

    How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?

    It is an honor-It’s motivating because it makes you feel as if you are doing something right, you‘re on the right track. The Festival is a good chance to make a collection for the sake of creativity, a boundless opportunity.

    How would you describe Hyeres in three words?

    Independent, for the love of art and generous.

    What has been your favorite part of the process so far?

    I am studying business at the same time so getting back to “stitching” for me was great. Before sending the work I was dreaming of the concept, the collection as a whole, trying the fabrics, carefully choosing and combining them. This time though the process felt different, as it was the first time I had created a collection respecting my archetypal sketches and drawings.

    In three words , what is your collection about?

    Materials, couture and Rock&Roll.

    The Stimuleye

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  • EYE CANDY

    hyères just a taste… entering Villa Noailles

    - by filep

    In a few days, one more Hyères Festival will be taking place at the Villa Noailles.

    The house is an exceptional building amenity that combines amazing spaces, light, the most amazing view of the Hyères peninsula, the most romantic botanical garden, with cement paths and staircases, inside and outside whilst cubism is visible on every corner….

    photography by Filep Motwary

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste… pascale mussard

    - by filep

    “Ready to fight like a lionness.”

    It’s hard to imagine those words coming from the mouth of Pascale Mussard.
    But as art director in a very special company, the “petit h” division of Hermès, she knows how to wait for the right moment before springing into action, while in the meantime keeping an eye for that special quality — talent.

    Which makes her the perfect Hyères 2012 jury member.

    Pascale Mussard, photography Rene Habermacher © Hyeres 2012

    How should luxury be interpreted within a young creator’s work?

    At Hermes, an object, a creation, must “speak”. It is nourished by the soul and hand of craftsman. It is designed, created, pampered, shaped, dreamed, ennobled, sublimated. It is made with respect, love, passion. Young creators work must inscribe beauty in use, and use in beauty. Nothing superfluous, only honesty every step of the way: from design to production. As heirs of a noble tradition of craftsmanship, our initiatives must be loyal and the innovative expression of this tradition. It must show our optimism and wonderful ingenuity, that last long and leave all horizons open.

    What would you say is key to sustaining a fashion brand in a world like ours which is ever changing?

    Innovation?

    “L’obligation ardente de toute culture” Hélène Ahrweiller [the impassioned obligation of any culture]

    Integrity : Never forget our values, from where you come from and invent objects that will last long, be transmitted and bring joy.

    Continue to give testament to the relationship between man and the wisdom flowing from acceptance of nature and the unchangeable beauty of usefulness, by reflecting through craftmanship on the meaning of objects and the importance of the ties within mankind.

    New petit h film, produced by Partizan.

    The art at Petit h is so colourful, fun, happy. Do you feel that ‘happy’ is a keyword for our fashion era now? For our Hyeres contest, would you look for ‘happiness’ to be an aspect in choosing the winner?

    My uncle Jean Louis Dumas was saying “où que vous soyez , refusez de vous embêter, dans un milieu de qualité , ce serait du gâchis.» [wherever you may be, refuse to be bored, in a place of quality it would be a waste.]

    Petit h : May be not happy as « youthful» Petit h is indeed linked to childhood, particularly in the way to perceive objects and materials, in a new way without preconceptions or prejudice. It is a light, constant, free creation process which makes this petit “h” the legitimate child of Hermès: though sometimes impertinent, a child that does not cease to grow while learning on the materials, the hands that create, and the values of Hermès. For Hyères, it is a “team” judgment under a very innovative President: Mr Y Yamamoto.

    Happiness is always a positive value for me, but innovation, fantasy and talent are more important.

    Working for a house as historic and of great heritage as Hermès, how do you encounter the challenge to align new ideas with the skills of traditional craftsmanship?

    “During a long time I worked on a one-on-one basis with artists and designers. Then, in 2009, the project truly took off and we started working with a cabinet of accumulated materials and craftsmen who worked closely with the artists (at the time Gilles Joneman, Christian Astuguevielle and Godefroy de Vireu) in the recreation process. The pieces created were then submitted to the family and the artistic direction, and the project was approved for a first sale which went very well, allowing us to keep growing.”

    “An artist, designer, “geotrouvetout” [inventor] is invited by me to come to the atelier and to dive into the cabinet of materials – the materials are the source of inspiration for all creations, They must work with what is available. These materials will spark the creative process and discussion between the craftsmen and designers to find a solution that is concrete, realizable and esthetic according to Hermes values and procedures. The creation at Petit h comes primarily from a dialogue between the hands of the craftsmen, the materials and the ideas of the designer.”

    Craftsmen and designers do not necessarily have the same priorities. What is the collaboration like?

    Si vous écoutez vous finissez par entendre. Et un bon entendeur est plus facilement entendu…

    [if you listen you will hear. and a good hearer is more easily heard…]

    They have to be able to work together well, be able to respond to their partner. I frequently act as a middle person or a kind of midwife. I encourage the team members and say: “We have never done anything like this before, but why don’t we try it out?” If the designer knows exactly what he wants, then the craftsman has to use all his memory, skill and bring out all the techniques that he knows. Currently, we are working on a life-sized bear which is intended for the exhibition in Berlin (23 April – 12 May). The leather is folded using the origami technique – which is something that is for us completely without precedent. The designer Charles Kaisin calls up frequently to find out how we’re getting on. Last week, one of our craftsmen said he thought he would never be able to realize the idea. But eventually everyone in the studio found a method which works.

    An inner connection must be forged between the designer and the craftsman. If this happens then I am prepared to defend their work within the company like a lioness.

    What is the last thing that you experienced, saw or heard that stimulated you?

    Recently I had the chance , the luck to visit really inspiring places, Naoshima (Japan), Inhotim (Brazil) two sites that offer a unique combination of major contemporary art collection and nature.

    Two wonderful projects: A DREAM. Brazil and Japan, two countries very energetic and inspiring for me. A great encounter in Brazil: the architect Marcio Kogan ( Sao Paulo)

    This summer a beautiful and peaceful trip: Ladakh.

    Hyères Fashion + Photography Festival
    April 27-30, 2012

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    hyères just a taste… irene silvagni

    - by filep

    With one of the longest careers in the industry, Irène Silvagni is considered as one the master-keys that open every door in fashion.

    As creative director of Vogue Paris in the late 80’s, she initiated collaborations with Peter Lindbergh, Paolo Roversi, Steven Meisel and Ellen Von Unwerth.

    One of the 2012 Hyères festival fashion jury members, picked by president Yohji Yamamoto, for whom she does creative direction, we asked for her view on ethics, talent and achievement…

    Irene Silvagni photo by Elise Toide ©

    What are the ethics a young designer should have?

    The most important is the “freedom”. One needs to follow what ever what he/she believes in.

    Stick to your style.

    In your career you have introduced to the industry and the world a lot of new talent. Do you still find yourself as excited by the new crop of talent today? And do you find there is a lot of progression in terms of work that is coming out today?

    I remember the time when we were a few editors fighting to have Azzedine Alaia recognized, wearing his clothes at the shows, fighting to have editors and buyers get to rue de Bellechasse; and those were moments of intense happiness.

    I also remember when the Japanese designers arrived in Paris, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto. It was a shock, a new kind beauty, a page was turned but in a way it seemed like a battle against a certain form of journalism which did not understand and accept this evolution.

    A revolution that opened all the Belgian movement, which is to this day still at the top.

    What do you think is the most challenging thing for young designers to conquer to achieve success today?

    The main problem is of course to resist the pressure of economics and the space given to big advertisers in magazines, also to be able to produce and deliver.

    The success of Carven, Rochas, Giambattista Valli, all of the independent designers has given a new energy to fashion… The placement of Raf Simons at Dior, the return of Slimane at YSL will bring new challenges in term of aesthetics…

    Irene Silvagni photo by Elise Toide ©

    How do you relate fashion with elegance?

    I do think that elegance is related to the woman or the man wearing clothes.

    Though, some clothing are not supposed to be “elegant”, they have style, magic, they are strong or soft, black or white all and its contrary. A piece of cloth wrapped around the body is elegant. I could go on and on talking on elegance. Sometimes I cross some girls in the street and I feel amazed by their creativity in putting clothes together. It’s amazing, inspiring and elegant!!

    There are more magazines then ever, yet the paper publishing is in crisis. How do you see fashion magazine publishing today? What excites you or you are missing to see?

    I miss the space given to young designers and new talents, I miss being surprised, I miss the adrenaline.

    These days, while turning the pages I often know what I am going to see, I read the same news on every magazine, see always the same people. As a professional and a reader I am disappointed most of the time, although there are still some magazines that I find exciting!

    What is the last thing that you experienced, saw or heard that stimulated you?

    The last Azzedine Alaia fashion show…

    Olivier Saillard exhibitions and performances.

    Hyères Fashion + Photo Festival
    April 27-30, 2012

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    SIREN SUZANNE von AICHINGER

    - by filep

    Suzanne von Aichinger is a modern archetype of the Parisian muse, in spite of the fact that she was born in Germany, and grew up in Canada.

    She was discovered by the legendary illustrator Antonio Lopez, whom she considers to be one of the great influences in her life, as well as a very close friend. She inspired and collaborated closely in the design studios, with Christian Lacroix, John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier. Suzanne von Aichinger posed for iconic photographers Serge Lutens, Paolo Roversi, Mario Testino, Jean Loup Sieff, Ali Madhavi, David Seidner, and strutted down the catwalks of Yves St Laurent, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Gianni Versace, Christian Dior (Galliano) , Hermes, Martin Margiela, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier.

    In Greek mythology, the Sirens with the irresistible charm of their song, lured mariners to their destruction on the rocks surrounding their island..

    In modern mythology, Sirens are dressed in Rick Owens, pose for photographer René Habermacher and share their secrets and thoughts on current and past affairs with Stimuleye Filep Motwary

    SUZANNE VON AICHINGER feature, is a collaboration between Un nouVeau iDEAL and THE STIMULEYE
    Fashion Editor : Ines Fendri ⎜ Make Up : Akiko Sakamoto ⎜ Hair : Karin Bigler
    Production : Lynsey Peisinger for THE STIMULEYE
    Special Thanks to Mr Rick Owens and Anne van den Bosche @ Rick Owens Press Office
    05_SUZANNE_von_AICHINGER_rene_habermacher
    KALI, Suzanne von Aichinger wears a Rick Owens cape and gloves, all FW2011. Photography by René Habermacher

    I always liked her and when we finally became friends, I liked her even more. In the following conversation Suzanne shares her thoughts on fashion, music, talent, the water, mythology and other obscurities. You are about to discover the muse, the model, the artist, the stylist..

    I caught her leg on her daybreak between styling for a Vogue photo shoot and organizing a major project.

    FILEP MOTWARY: Hi beautiful? So it was very difficult to catch you in the past two months. What have you been up to?

    SUZANNE von AICHINGER: I know Filep. I’ve been a little like Houdini…escaping. But for a good reason. I had plenty of work and styling projects

    Tell me more about it please. It seems you work non-stop.

    It’s been good for me lately. I’ve been styling some perfume campaigns, editorials for Russian Vogue, Italian Vanity Fair, doing photos with Dita, and now I’m preparing another perfume campaign, and a major photo shoot with one of the MOST gorgeous women on the planet.

    Oh Gosh, indeed its a lot. You mean the actress, Elisa Sednaoui? Ali posted a shot of her on twitter…

    Oh what a beauty Elisa is!!! But, I’m referring to another lady…very iconic. I don’t know if I should say who it is. I don’t like to talk about things before they come out…

    I understand. How easy it is for you to collaborate with people. What a concept needs to have in order to get you involved in it?

    Collaborating with people is my ultimate way of creating. I find the dynamic of working with another or others, stimulating, and proven a successful way of expression for me.

    How do you make your choices? Is money an important motive or not always?

    There has to be an element that compels me, something that excites my imagination. I also have to feel that I have something relevant to bring to the story. Money is very often not a motive. But, sometimes it is an essential part of creation. We must also live, make a living, etc. You have to know when to give and when to sell!! There is no shame in being paid for a job well done. Andy Warhol considered making money the highest art form. I’m not sure that I adhere to this philosophy, but I don’t love being broke either. I like the freedom that having some cash on hand can procure you.

    On the other hand there might be talented people, who would love your contribution but, lets say, cannot afford you. How would you react in such conditions?

    I usually say YES to a project, which stimulates me. It’s not about the $$$. It’s about the action. I believe in working with people that I consider talented or kindred spirits. As people of great talent have wanted to work with me, when I had no money to pay them. Just for the sheer joy of seeing an idea become a reality.

    I wanted to ask you about the photo shoot you just did with René Habermacher. It’s so iconic, yet in a very special way. How was working with René?

    I loved it. We had a beautiful day together, with a great creative team. We wanted to express in this series, something that is based more on personality, than fashion. I feel that there are many stories to be told in my future with René. There is a quality in his vision that is very strong and appealing.

    03_SUZANNE_von_AICHINGER_rene_habermacher
    CASSANDRA, Suzanne von Aichinger wears a Rick Owens dress, boots and gloves, all FW2011.
    Photography by René Habermacher

    Exactly my point. The photographs serve our conversation so right! I’m very happy that Rick Owens was so positive when I contacted him for the garments. He is always so nice to me. Also for the fact that we shot his winter collection which is by far my favorite!

    So am I! I LOVE Rick! He is one of my favorites. And, his fashion is timeless. I know that this can sound cliché, but if you have some pieces by Rick from 12 years ago, they are as relevant as pieces that he has made 2 days ago. They don’t go in and out of fashion. They have their own essence and place.

    Having in mind that Rick’s clothes are so special, yet the 2000’s are the epitome of diversity. Each designer points out a different outline every season, there is so much choice. How do you see fashion now yourself, as a stylist?

    It’s hard for me to answer this. I see many great things happening, no doubt. But, I see a lot of nonsense going on as well. There is not enough power any more in the hands of the creators. Now, big design houses change designers like they change their underwear. Just ridiculous. There is no time for the designer in place to create a brand identity, that he is fired. And very often, they find out that they’ve been fired, by reading about it in the papers.

    It’s as if the financial/commercial people at the heads of some houses, envied the position of creator, and wished to usurp it. They believe that they are capable of being the creator. WRONG!!!!
    (more…)

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    NEXT: SUZANNE von AICHINGER

    - by filep

    In Greek mythology, the Sirens with the irresistible charm of their song, lured mariners to their destruction on the rocks surrounding their island..

    In modern mythology, Sirens are dressed in Rick Owens, pose for photographer Rene Habermacher and share their secrets and thoughts on current and past affairs with Stimuleye Filep Motwary

    Stay tuned..

    SUZANNEvAICHINGER_rene_habermacher
    Siren Suzanne von Aichinger wears Rick Owens FW2011. Photography by René Habermacher.
    Fashion Editor : Ines Fendri ⎜ Make Up : Akiko Sakamoto ⎜ Hair : Karin Bigler ⎜ Production : Lynsey Peisinger

    What was the last thing that stimulated you?

    Suzanne von Aichinger:
    Shooting Haider Ackermann’s portrait for Vogue.”

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    RICHARD GRAY “owns his own teeth”

    - by filep

    Richard Gray of the Sunday Times and 1O & 1O MEN talks to Filep Motwary

    Richard Gray is a Taurean – but don’t hold that against him. He studied modern languages at University but hasn’t spoken a word of it since. He loves fashion and carbs and not necessarily in that order.

    He was recently followed into the men’s room at Claridges by Morrissey but nothing came of it. Richard owns his own teeth. He is not a virgin. He is however verging on the ridiculous. He writes lots of stuff on fashion for Sunday Times Style, 10 and 10 Men. He’s open to bribery.

    richard-gray_motwary-blog
    Richard desperately tries to hide a hang over behind his shades in Barcelona at the opening of the W hotel.
    Photograph by Alastair Jamieson

    RICHARD GRAY: Here I am

    FILEP MOTWARY: Oh hi there, how are you Richard?
    I’m great thank you. And you? This damn London drizzle is doing nothing for my hair however. It looks like a damn (Prada) mohair jumper…

    Hahah, I saw your video review on Prada’s summer 2011 collection a few minutes ago. I was impressed how you pointed out its references. Really it reminded you of menswear?
    And there it is: look at my forehead – it’s fuking scrotal! Anyway, yes, Mrs Prada says she gets dressed from the ground up – so shoes first – it’s a starting point for her. The shoes, the multi-layered ‘platforms’ took their cue from menswear, no doubt about that. The clothes, of course, came from elsewhere. BUT this perverted conceit, that cotton is a luxury fabric, is odd (in a good way). It’s political. She’s political. The price of cotton is through the roof! Rice, oil, rubber: the world’s commodity prices are skewed. This was perhaps on Mrs Prada’s mind at the time. She has a lot on her mind.

    It seems that you are quite fond of Prada, why?
    I think she only finds peace in original thought. There aren’t many fashion designers who share the same mind-space: Rei, Junya, Marc, Raf – we all know who they are. I also think there is something ultimately divisive about a house that caters to the bourgeois – a collective marked by conformity – yet bastardises old ideas/ideals. This is sinister. *Shiver goes down author’s spine*

    I completely agree with you! On the other hand, I wish to ask you about the new and upcoming designers-if there are any since everything is fading away so rapidly. How difficult is for someone new to become an establishment these days?
    Interestingly my assistant Lizzie(Hi Lizzie) went to the St Martins BA fashion design show last week. She said you could feel a move away from classics of the past two seasons and far more adventurous designs one the catwalk now. Good. I suspect however, that young design graduates have more of an eye for business than those of, say, five years ago. They recognize there’s validity in getting your clothes produced and people wearing them. And, more importantly, St Martins and London College of Fashion, the Royal College of Art etc. are now focusing more on the business of fashion. It’s still not easy for a graduate, but they are more business minded on graduation than ever before. Galliano (Yikes! I said his name) argues that talent will always be recognized, despite the difficulties?

    You mean sooner or later? But, should a young creator first get a job in a big house (as a major designer once told me) or it would be better to try the solo route for starters?
    Yes. He uses himself as the ultimate argument that you can fail and fail again. And finally, finally, if you keep trying, incredible talent will be recognized. Not sure how this theory goes down with those who have ended up bankrupt and broken by fashion… The route to success depends on the opportunities that come the young designer’s way. You take somebody like Christopher Kane who did things the textbook way – managed cleverly by his sister Tammy. He’s proved you can do it. He’s a great message for London fashion. Then there’s somebody like Peter Copping, who, I think is on the brink of the global recognition he deserves. He served at Louis Vuitton with Marc but kept under the radar, yet produced some wonderful designs. Now he’s doing wonderful things at Nina Ricci. Both routes can work. Both routes have their own advantages and disadvantages. One thing: being a success in the fashion design world is damn hard. “You pay in sweat!” (See start of ’80s TV horror, Fame for more inspirational advice)

    10_Magazine_Men

    I wanted to ask you, if I may, about your opinion on John Galliano, since his name came up…?
    The man is clearly not well. He needs, and I hope he’s getting, help. His comments were HORRIFIC and INEXCUSABLE.
    (more…)

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  • EYE 2 EYE

    REIN VOLLENGA talks to FILEP MOTWARY

    - by filep

    An artist or a milliner, a sculptor or a fashion creative, Rein Vollenga is a true artist, teetering between both fields with optimistic and unconditional inspiration.

    Ever since he first revealed his works to the public back in 2007, Dutch Vollenga’s career seems unstoppable, counting numerous collaborations with the likes of Lady Gaga, MUGLER, Johnny Woo, Marcel Fengler, Mc Kinki, Tiga…

    The interview is an exclusive in participation of The Stimuleye with uN nouVeau iDEAL

    REIN VOLLENGA: Headpiece Hip-Hop Tribe, 2010, Mixed Media and Untitled, 2007, Mixed Media

    His works have been triumphantly presented in the most prestigious publications like Italian Vogue, Interview Magazine, Dazed, i-D, Vman as well as was featured in notorious web links like ShowStudio, Style.com and The New York Times not to mention Museums like Neues.

    Two days before the opening night featuring his participation at “I WANNA DANCE WITH SOMEBODY” (a project headed by Lars Laumann presented at The Hague’s West Gallery) I had a chat with him for The Stimuleye. Lets dive in our conversation at the moment I was trying to explain the dramatic changes Greece is going through…

    FILEP MOTWARY: So, yes back to drama….

    REIN VOLLENGA: Drama is always a good source for making art.

    FilepMotwary: How does drama reflect in your work then? The forms you create are not happy yet neither sad. But there is always some kind of expression in them that leads one to wonder what the situation behind those faces is about…

    ReinVollenga: My work is never a reference to just one specific thought, but if I can somehow invoke emotion, make people think or stimulate and inspire somebody then I’m happy.

    I don’t want to teach or force people to learn something, as Art is a really personal experience, a fantasy or illusion. Artists should treasure that and exclude their own vanity in spite of excluding the viewer. I feel I don’t need to change the world either, neither can I.

    I can only interact or have a dialogue with the viewer through what I create. I would love to change the world but it doesn’t make sense, forcing people to believe in something they don’t understand.

    In my sculptures I like to attract the viewer through the beauty reflected in them. By looking closely at the piece, it will reveal by itself, something that might not be so pleasant at the end. This is the kind of contrast I like!

    FilepMotwary: I like your way of thinking. Yohji Yamamoto once stated, “‘an artist is somebody who creates things that you don’t need’.” How do you see art?

    Rein Vollenga: Art to me is an experience, Illusion or fantasy. It’s something that triggers your mind and keep you fantasizing.

    REIN VOLLENGA: Untitled, 2008, Mixed Media and Untitled, 2007, Mixed Media
    (more…)

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